Page 39 - Holyland Magazine - 2019 Edition

"Main Street" of Beit She'an.
Photo: Hanan Issachar

protected Dionysus, the god of wine. However, Bible to read this story, you can also recall the
when the town became Christian, one of the source of their loyalty to Saul – he had saved
fundamental structures of Christian worship them from Nahash the Ammonite in the early
was installed in the bathhouse (which also had days of his reign (1 Sam. 11).
pagan elements including a statuary and an
You can also see Mount Gilboa, where Saul
Renewaloutdoor courtyard for nude exercises). took his own life after his defeat and the death
visit theaters or circuses, or he can go to the of his sons (1 Sam. 31:1-6), and you’ll take
synagogue or the houses of study.” comfort in the spectacular tableau of green
or golden fields, depending on the season,
Moving past the temple along the city’s main stretching in all directions. Lush landscapes
east-west thoroughfare, another piece of like these have long been a feature of this area.
Christian history brings alive the historical In the 3rd century CE, one Jewish sage said:
“seam” between pagan and Christian Beit “If the Garden of Eden is in the land of Israel, its
portals are in Beit She’an.”
Beit She’an is an interesting place to imagine She’an. In pagan days, this shop-lined street
Continuing your tour, somewhat off the
how Christians and Jews kept their values in was adorned by a fountain dedicated to beaten track, are the remains of an enormous
bridge, first built by the Romans, spanning the
a pagan environment. Passing the marble- the water nymphs. Opposite the shrine a Harod Stream to the north. Travelers coming
to the city from the northeast would have
fronted shops with their shaded, colonnaded monumental lintel is displayed. On it is an first spied its splendors from here. The 6th
century church historian Cyril of Scythopolis,
walkways that may have been history’s earliest inscription, which begins with a cross and who describes a number of churches in Beit
She’an and its outskirts, might have caught
strip mall, you’ll come to the intersection of credits the city’s governor, by the name of his first glimpse of the city from the top of the
bridge. Scholars have in fact uncovered the
the two main streets and a huge temple, Ablabius, with the construction of a “platform,” remains of churches and a monastic complex
on Tel Estaba, north of the Harod Stream. One
its gargantuan pillars still lying where the probably for new buildings. Scholars believe majestic mosaic floor of a monastery depicts
its founders, identified by an inscription as “our
earthquake felled them on that fateful January Ablabius was Beit She’an’s governor in 363 noble lady Mary and her son Maximus,” along
with a zodiac, plant and animal motifs.
day almost 1,300 years ago. On the street in CE and rebuilt it after an earthquake. He took
A visit to Beit She’an should not be missed,
front of the temple, incense altars would have advantage of the opportunity for urban renewal not only for its magnificent ruins, but for its
significant links to Christian history, faith and
constantly been burning. to put the pagan shrines out of commission values.

In an ancient commentary called Midrash and turn the “sacred way” that connected
Tanhuma, the Jewish sages addressed the them into a commercial street.

issue of how to deal with pagan “intrusions” At this point in your visit, take a break from

into their lives: “There are six things which Roman and Byzantine times to climb the stairs

serve man; three are in his control and three up the biblical tel. The top reveals a wonderful

are not. Eye, nose and ear are not. He must view of the ruins, and a truly scriptural

see, smell and hear what he may not want to landscape. To the north you can see the Sea

... A man may be passing through the street of Galilee and, on a clear day, Mount Hermon.

when they are burning incense to an idol and To the east is the Jordan River, and beyond it,

he has no wish to smell the incense, but his the mountains of Gilead. This region is where

nose forces him to do so. So too, his eye may a “commando unit” consisting of King Saul’s

bring him sinful sights and his ear blasphemous loyal followers from Jabesh Gilead, came to

words against his will ... But mouth, hand and remove his body and those of his sons from

foot are in his power ... He need not wish to the walls on which the Philistines had pinned

slander or curse or blaspheme ... He need not them, and take them back to their homeland

wish to steal or murder. With his foot he can to mourn (2 Sam. 31:11-13). As you open your

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